Wednesday, November 22, 2006

Life's A Beach! (On the Abel Tasman Coastal Track)

The Abel Tasman Coastal Tramp is a 51km track and one of the most beautiful in the Country, passing through pleasant native bush that overlooks numerous beaches of golden sand lapped by gleaming blue-green water. The numerous bays, beaches and overlooks are like a travel brochure come to life!
Awoke at 6:30 AM in Nelson to drive to the Kayak Company. We decided to rent kayaks for two days and would hike the remainder of the track for another two days to it's Northern Terminus.
Again, the weather goddess smiled upon us. It has been incredible. The kayak company gives you a lesson, all equipment needed (including bilge pump and signal flair), and arranges to pick up the kayak at a predetermined beach further up the coast.


We paddled for hours along the serene coast, observing birds and rock formations and small beaches along the coast. A few seals swam with mackenzie for awhile. We arrived at the campsite on Te Pukatea beach, a massive sheltered "C" shaped beach cove nestled among the trees. There are 8 campsites there. We cooked some noodles and sat on the beach and watched the sun set as the tide went out. Quiet, peaceful, mesmerizing, solitude, idyllic...ahhhhh. Simultaneously and almost imperceptibly (is that a word?), the stars began to pop out and flicker quickly. Before night was done, the sky was FILLED with stars. The heat rising from the earth made them twinkle constantly. However, I could not recognize the Southern Sky constellations, then, coming up on the horizon, I saw the ever-familiar Orion. But, he was upside down!! In a short time, I saw 5 satellites and a shooting star.


Pre-dawn the next morning, the forest was loudly echoing with the chattering calls of many types of birds. I couldn't sleep, but enjoyed laying in my tent surrounded by the enchantingly lovely sounds of my winged friends.


Another picture perfect weather day. After a quick bagel, we packed and jumped back in the kayaks for more northern paddlin'. We stopped at two beaches to chill and relax before our final approach to the drop off point at Onetahuti Beach. We looked out to sea a bit and noticed white-tipped waves and that the winds had picked up considerably around the exposed point of the cliffs that we had to paddle along. We battened down the hatches and figured we better hit it before it got worse. Once we passed the secure arms of the cove, the winds along the rugged coast hit us like a ton of bricks! No choice but to paddle as hard as possible directly into the waves and winds. Sometimes you would look over at the shore and see that you were going nowhere, but you had to paddle just to stop from going backwards or capsizing. It seemed like we were battling the winds and waves for hours. Sea spray pelted our faces and the waves were crashing right into us and tossing our kayaks around. At times I thought my arms would give out. Eventually, we made it around the horn and into the next bay called Onetahuti Beach; where the kayaks would be picked up, we would camp tonight and start hiking from tomorrow.

Deja Vu on the camping thing...set up tent, ate noodles, watched the sunset and stars come out..blah, blah, same old, same old.


P.S...The cliff face we had to paddle around is called "Cape Foul Wind"or something (hmmmm..)


We met a girl named Heather from Seattle the night before and she was camping at our beach again tonight. We all talked about hiking together the next 2 days, then she would join our merry fellowship for a ride down the west coast since that was her intention also.


It rained off and on most of the night but by morning it had stopped and the sun shown again. So, we packed up and pushed on north toward the Anapai Bay campsite. The hiking here is so pleasant. In and out of forests with ferns and moss, then to a vista overlooking the next beach you would be walking on 10 minutes later, etc, etc. We arrived at Anapai Beach and had it all to ourselves! It was surreal. You almost felt as if you discovered a new land. I practiced cartwheels and handstands on the beach. We were all pretty silly (dance like no one is watching, right?).


Anyway, the next day was highlighted by reaching the northern tip of the coast at Separation Point, and area where Blue Penguins, Seals and Seagulls hang out. Took some pictures and checked out the funky looking penguins, but gale force winds picked up and we skedaddled for the protection of the forest. An hour later, we were at the car (picked up a hitcher from Holland) and driving toward a little (little) town of Takaka for a hot shower, hot meal and non-ground bed.


The Abel Tasman Coastal Track was truly a treat (unless you don't like beaches, coves, blue water, forests of ferns, birds, waterfalls...)

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